Company Pot Roast

Company Pot Roast | Image: Laura Messersmith

Company Pot Roast | Image: Laura Messersmith

Each week I follow along with Ina Garten (aka the Barefoot Contessa) and attempt to recreate one of her dishes in my tiny New York City kitchen. The catch? This is my version of cooking school and I’m making these recipes for the first time. I’ll share both my successes and um, challenges, along the way and we’ll see if I can keep up with the Contessa!

Episode: “Comfort and Company”

The Set-up: Ina is re-testing some classic recipes and updating them for company.

The Menu: Company Pot Roast, Baked Potatoes with Yogurt and Sour Cream

0:27 – First step of Company Pot Roast: haul out the biggest pot in the house! That is seriously a giant Le Creuset French oven.

1:11 – Pro Tip #1: Pat the roast dry with paper towels to help it sear in the pot.

2:34 – I love a two-fer - Pro Tip #2: After seasoning, dredge the roast in flour – the light coating browns the meat and thickens the sauce.

3:25 – Ina lets one of her secrets for making this company-ready: she’s stealing some inspiration from Beef Bourgignon. Which if you think about it is basically the same dish, just fancied up.

4:16 – Ina keeps a notebook near by when she’s testing recipes to keep track of what she’s doing, a practice I whole-heartedly endorse. If I can’t remember what I did, how can I recreate it?

5:48 – Need a suggestion for the Company Pot Roast extra sauce? Ina uses it to make pasta Bolognese.

6:02 – This is a classic stew/soup/braise combo: onion, carrot, celery, garlic, leeks. Yum!

7:16 – The plot thickens! Ina is going to be home alone and doesn’t need an entire pot roast, so she’s calling her friend Dwyer (who’s in the depths of a kitchen remodel) to see if she’d like dinner. Naturally the answer is “yes.”

10:47 – Apparently if you want to terrify Ina just invite her to a really stiff, formal dinner with starched napkins and hard chairs. Actually that does sound unappealing…

11:22 – Now for the bouquet garni of rosemary and thyme fresh from the garden and tied with kitchen twine.

12:28 – In goes the Burgundy - she really is drawing on beef Bourgignon - cognac, tomatoes, and chicken stock. And (!) something really old-fashioned: a bouillon cube!

13:10 – Dwyer the lucky duck is now jetting around town buying flowers for Ina as a thank you. So sweet!

14:28 – Pot roast is in the oven to bubble away for a few hours. I love hands-off cooking!

18:39 – On to the Baked Potatoes with Yogurt and Sour Cream and Ina is using baking potatoes – specifically russets.

19:02 – Pro Tip #3: Potatoes bake better if the skins are dry before they go in the oven. I never knew that!

20:35 – These are some seriously no-fuss potatoes – no foil, no olive oil, not even pierced with a fork! – just placed right on the oven rack at 350 degrees.

21:41 – Dwyer continues to plan a thank you for Ina by picking up Chinese take-out for dinner. If you’re curious, she orders General Tso’s Chicken with Broccoli and white rice – I assume this is Ina’s usual?

22:53 – Pro Tip for the Ages: “You can make something really simple, but if it’s beautifully presented it makes all the difference in the world.” I’m trying to incorporate that into so many areas of life!

26:16 – Why choose chunky or pureed sauce for Company Pot Roast when you can have both?

27:03 – Pro Tip #4: Mashing the flour into softened butter prevents lumpy sauce. This is one of my all time favorite tricks.

28:20 – I like how Ina upped the fanciness with the ingredients and the presentation by pre-slicing the roast. So much easier to serve!

29:38 – Dwyer arrives to pick up dinner and deliver her surprises to Ina, who seems genuinely delighted by them.

29:59 – Fast forward to dinner time and Dwyer sends Ina a photo of everyone enjoying their delicious meal. Yay!

Company Pot Roast | Image: Laura Messersmith

Company Pot Roast | Image: Laura Messersmith

Final Thoughts:
It’s amazing how the addition of an ingredient or one small change can transform one dish into something else entirely (ex. Beef Bourgignon vs. Company Pot Roast)

Still reflecting on the Pro Tip for the Ages. Should I stitch a throw pillow so I don’t forget?

Wondering, with all the cooking Ina does, how many people in the Hamptons get a catered dinner each week compliments of the Barefoot Contessa Test Kitchen?

Lessons Learned:
I’ve made similar dishes in the past, but I decided to make Company Pot Roast any way to learn more about Ina’s techniques for developing flavor and to see if it really was special enough for company.

Alliums – as I’ve been cooking more I’ve realized that using multiple members of this family - aka onions, leeks, garlic, shallots, etc. – can build layers and depth in a dish. The complexity of flavors increases so much just by using adding shallot or leeks to the standard onions. Try it sometime and see if you taste a difference too.

Sauce – similar to the layering of alliums, Ina’s recipes (and now my own) often incorporate wine and in this case, cognac too. I’m continually amazed by the richness a cup of red wine adds to a tomato sauce and the combination with roast beef is classic.

Presentation – the recipe suggests allowing the roast to rest before slicing and serving with the sauce. Such a small adjustment, but such a big difference! It saves the host(ess) from wrangling a giant piece of meat at the table and definitely takes this dish to “company” level.

Company Pot Roast | Image: Laura Messersmith

Company Pot Roast | Image: Laura Messersmith

Small Kitchen Friendly?
Surprisingly, yes - Company Pot Roast is essentially a one-pot meal! I used a large cutting board, my trusty 5 quart Le Creuset, and a blender. I also used a chef’s knife, measuring cups & spoons, tongs, a wooden spatula, a large spoon, and a large pronged fork. Kitchen twine will be helpful too.

The Verdict:
Who could doubt that the Barefoot Contessa has a kick-ass (pardon my French) and company appropriate recipe for pot roast? The flavor of the sauce is amazing - definitely serve this along side something to soak up the extra, like mashed potatoes or polenta - deeply tomato-y and rich with the wine and herbs. I’d also recommend saving any that remains after dinner to serve over pasta or with baked eggs (more on that idea next week!)

Company Pot Roast | Image: Laura Messersmith

Company Pot Roast | Image: Laura Messersmith

Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls

Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls | Image: Laura Messersmith

Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls | Image: Laura Messersmith

Each week I follow along with Ina Garten (aka the Barefoot Contessa) and attempt to recreate one of her dishes in my tiny New York City kitchen. The catch? This is my version of cooking school and I’m making these recipes for the first time. I’ll share both my successes and um, challenges, along the way and we’ll see if I can keep up with the Contessa!

Episode: “Birthday Parties”

The Set-up: To celebrate Jeffrey’s birthday Ina is cooking him a dinner of Jewish comfort food straight from his grandmother’s playbook.

The Menu: Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls, Stuffed Cabbage

0:43 – Is it weird that Jeffrey and I like to celebrate our birthdays the same way? A stroll through a charming town followed by dinner at home – just add chocolate cake and we’re golden.

1:32 – Ina drops Jeffrey off at Book Hampton to browse while she heads home to finish their dinner. Is that a copy of “Back to Basics” I spy?

2:16 – First up, Stuffed Cabbage. Hmmm.

3:25 – So, there are raisins and brown sugar in the tomato sauce? Not winning any points…

4:41 – This is a complex recipe, not only does it involve a meatloaf-esque filling, but there are also cabbage leaves to blanch. This is love exemplified.

5:07 – On a positive note, I can definitely appreciate Ina’s cabbage rolling technique. They’re like little green burritos!

6:19 – Ina says that the flavors are “sweet and sour” and again, I’ve never really been on board with that combination when it’s a savory dish. Oh dear, this is one of the few Barefoot Contessa recipes that I will never make. (Sorry, Ina, you’re still perfect in my book!)

9:35 – We visit with Jeffrey for a moment as he relives past birthday surprises that Ina has organized. He married well, Ina would be the perfect surprise organizer.

10:23 – Back with Ina to make Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls and she’s in competition with Jeffrey’s grandmother for Grand Champion of Chicken Soup.

11:16 – We get a quick over view of Ina’s process for Homemade Chicken Stock, which involved three whole chickens. She is not messing around with this soup.

12:20 – Matzo ball time and I am watching this carefully for tips… Pro Tip#1: beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form and fold into the mixture; Pro Tip #2: use just 1 cup of Matzo meal.

13:35 – I’m curious about the in-between steps of forming the matzo balls and actually cooking them – it seemed like Ina chilled them again…?

14:28 – The matzo balls look gorgeous, golden, and fluffy with a little bit of a rustic appearance. Yum!

17:45 – Now to finish the soup with the traditional carrots, celery, and shredded chicken.

18:02 – Ina is still challenging Jeffrey’s grandmother – is there a beef that never got squashed? Why the competition? It’s quite a mystery…

19:14 – Now for the fresh herbs – dill and parsley – they seem to be resisting a little. Darn those unruly, tangled herbs!

20:43 – Ina recommends saving the stems of herbs to use when making stock. I love it when she gets all Home Ec.

21:37 – Dinner time! Ina is ladling up bowls of the Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls and Jeffrey appears on cue.

22:11 – Ina appears to have won the Battle of the (Matzo) Balls, now let’s see how the Stuffed Cabbages go over…

22:19 – Ina is watching Jeffrey like a hawk as he takes the first bite. The consummate diplomat, he manages to compliment his lovely wife and honor his grandmother. Well played, sir.

25:50 – Ask Ina time. Question #1: Amy from Wisconsin wants a cutout sugar cookie recipe. Ina suggests this one: Classic Cookie Glaze.

26:16 – Question #2: Steve from Illinois needs advice on baking cakes ahead of time. Ina says – bake them, cool them completely on a rack, wrap in plastic and store in the refrigerator for 3-4 days. Frost them the day of the party.

27:45 – Question #3: Kim from North Carolina wants a recipe that her husband and young son can make for her. Ina says that Filet of Beef with Gorgonzola Sauce is a winner.

28:14 – Question #4: Chris from New York needs ideas for an easy, elegant birthday celebration for his partner. Ina’s recommendation: a picnic in Central Park catered from a specialty food store.

29:30 – And now Ina is off to entertain her birthday boy…

Final Thoughts:
really want to make Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls, but there is no way I’m boiling three chickens. There must be an easier way!

Note to self: start a stock bag in the freezer.

Cooking someone's favorite food for their birthday - such a sweet way to show them they're loved!

Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls | Image: Laura Messersmith

Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls | Image: Laura Messersmith

Lessons Learned:
Ina's Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls is a classic Jewish dish and I've eaten several versions both in restaurants and in private homes, but never attempted to make it myself. I should offer the disclaimer that with zero Jewish heritage to my name it’s nearly guaranteed that my adaptation (noted below) isn’t authentic or Kosher. You’ve been warned!

Matzo Ball Mixing: All the recipes I consulted emphasized maintaining a light, fluffy texture to the matzo mixture and ultimately to the cooked matzo ball, which is essentially a dumpling. The process of mixing reminded me a lot of making meatballs, crab cakes, etc. with one exception: instead of flavoring and binding crab meat the matzo meal is the main event. Definitely whip the egg whites thoroughly until they’re firm and then fold them gently into the matzo meal.

Matzo Ball Prep: The finished matzo mixture is really sticky, even after chilling in the refrigerator, so an ice cream scoop will be really helpful in forming the matzo balls. I’d also recommend chilling the formed balls on a baking sheet overnight to allow time for the mixture to absorb more of the liquid and become firmer.

Matzo Ball Cooking: Wet hands will keep the chilled matzo balls from sticking as you remove them from the baking sheet and place them in the hot stock to cook. Resist the urge to over crowd the pot – cook in batches if you need to – and since they’re relatively delicate when uncooked wait until they’ve been in the stock a few minutes before gently stirring. The matzo balls will float easily when they’re done, but check one by cutting it in half. If the interior still resembles dense, damp dough, the matzo balls need more cooking time.

Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls | Image: Laura Messersmith

Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls | Image: Laura Messersmith

Small Kitchen Friendly?
Not the original recipe, but my alternate version (below) is a bit more manageable. I used a large stock pot, two medium mixing bowls, a baking sheet, a medium cutting board, a chef’s knife, and an electric hand-mixer. I also used a wooden spatula, rubber spatula, small ice cream scoop, measuring cups and spoons. Parchment paper and plastic wrap will also be helpful.

The Verdict:
The soup is so flavorful with beautifully clear broth and tender shreds of chicken. To me matzo meal tastes a lot like crushed up saltine or oyster crackers, so the finished dumplings are perfect compliment to the soup. This recipe definitely takes some work and a fair amount of time, but the results are worth it!

Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls | Image: Laura Messersmith

Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls | Image: Laura Messersmith

Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls (yield: 10 servings)

Chicken Soup Ingredients:
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for chicken
1/2 cup leeks, chopped
1/2 cup yellow onions, diced
1 tablespoon shallots, minced
2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more for chicken
1/2 teaspoon black pepper, plus more for chicken
2 teaspoons fresh thyme, minced
3 cups carrots, peeled and large diced
2 cups celery, large diced
12 cups chicken stock
3 chicken breasts, skin on bone-in
1/4 cup fresh parsley, chopped

Chicken Soup Instructions:
Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees F.

Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil or parchment paper and place the chicken breasts skin side up on the sheet. Coat the skin with olive oil (1/2 teaspoon each) and sprinkle generously with kosher salt and black pepper.

Roast at 350 degrees for 35-40 minutes, or until an instant read thermometer registers 160 degrees. Allow the chicken to rest on the baking sheet until cool enough to handle. Reserve some of the chicken drippings for the matzo balls.

Meanwhile, in a large pot sauté the leeks, yellow onions, and shallots in 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat until the vegetables begin to soften. Add 2 teaspoons kosher salt, 1/2 teaspoon black pepper, and 2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme.

Add the large diced carrots and onions to the pot and sauté 4-5 minutes more. Add the chicken stock to the vegetables and stir to combine.

Remove the skin from the cooled, but still warm chicken breasts and pull the meat into bite-sized shreds. Stir the chicken into the soup and simmer over very low heat for 10-15 minutes. Serve hot with the simmered matzo balls.

Matzo Ball Ingredients:
4 extra-large eggs, separated
6 1/2 cups chicken stock, divided
1/4 cup rendered chicken fat or butter, melted
1/2 cup minced fresh parsley
2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more for egg whites
1 cup Streit’s matzo meal

Matzo Ball Instructions:
Separate the eggs, placing the yolks in one medium mixing bowl and the whites in another. Whisk together the egg yolks, 1/2 cup chicken stock, chicken fat, parsley, and salt. Stir in the matzo meal.

Next, use an electric mixer on high speed to whip the egg whites with a pinch of salt until they form stiff peaks. Gently fold the egg whites into the matzo mixture until just combined. Refrigerate for at least 15 minutes, or until the mixture is thick.

Use a small ice cream scoop to portion the matzo into 18-20 balls the size of ping-pong balls and place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Wet hands will help to handle the sticky mixture. Chill covered, preferably overnight. Drop them into 6 cups simmering chicken stock and cook for 20-30 minutes, or until fully cooked and puffed, turning once. Remove and serve hot - 2 per person - with a ladleful of the chicken soup and a sprinkle of fresh parsley.

Adapted and rewritten from Ina Garten's Chicken Soup, with additional reference to recipes by Chicago Tribune, and Smitten Kitchen.

Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls 3 smaller.jpg