Sagaponack Corn Pudding

September 18, 2015 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking with the Contessa

Each week I follow along with Ina Garten (aka the Barefoot Contessa) and attempt to recreate one of her dishes in my tiny New York City kitchen. The catch? This is my version of cooking school and I’m making these recipes for the first time. I’ll share both my successes and um, challenges, along the way and we’ll see if I can keep up with the Contessa!

Episode: “Tex Mex Homecoming”

The Set-up: Jeffrey’s on his way home for the weekend and Ina has a Tex Mex themed dinner planned.

The Menu: Sagaponack Corn Pudding, Guacamole, Tequila Lime Chicken, Frozen Key Lime Pie

0:47 – It’s Friday night and Jeffrey is on his way home, but Ina says that instead of regular roast chicken she’s doing a Tex Mex twist. He’s not going to know what hit him!

1:20 – First up Guacamole and naturally Ina has the most perfect avocados. I rarely find any in our store that are ripe but still un-dented. Yes, I’m jealous.

2:08 – We’re on the same page when it comes to making guacamole chunky and not overly pureed, but I’m not in favor of hot sauce in guacamole. Why ruin that cool green with spice?

3:32 – Off to the liquor store for tequila – Jose Gold for the Tequila Lime Chicken and the shop keeper recommends Sauza for margaritas. Noted.

4:03 – I’m an Ina Super Fan so I can tell this is an old episode because we’re in her house still and they haven’t quite nailed the tone yet. A few weird asides about jalapeno “giving my chicken attitude!”

4:17 – Just checked the date – it’s from 2003 and must be one of the first episodes ever!

5:34 – Okay, let’s focus here. It’s Frozen Key Lime Pie time, which so far involves the graham cracker crust. Pro Tip #1: Use a measuring cup to press the crust into the pan evenly.

9:41 – While the crust bakes, we’ve moved on to the Sagaponack Corn Pudding. Ina says she tries to balance out the flavors in a menu, so with something spicy she decided to serve the creamy corn pudding.

10:56 - FYI – this recipe is inspired by a similar version by Ina’s friend at Loaves & Fishes located in, you guessed it: Sagaponack!

11:13 – The corn pudding has chopped fresh basil in it, and I’m with Ina – basil + corn is one of my favorite combinations.

12:22 – The pudding is in the oven and now we get a shot of Mr. Garten speeding along toward home.

13:50 – Back to make the filling for the Frozen Key Lime Pie. It contains sweetened condensed milk and I don’t think I’ve ever cooked with it before, but apparently helps the custard to set up with no cooking.

14:09 – Aww, Jeffrey has arrived and now it’s margarita o’clock, plus some Guacamole. Woot!

19:31 – Now on to the main event: Tequila Lime Chicken. I’ve actually made this before and it is spicy for sure – chili powder, jalapeno and garlic!

20:18 – This is more of a logistical, tv show question, but how is Ina marinating this in about 15 minutes when she says that a few hours or overnight is the best?

21:42 – No time to fret because we’re on to the now-frozen key lime pie for the decorating and attractiveness step. Pro Tip #2: Decorate with an ingredient, in this case: lime wedges.

23:04 – Fun Fact for the Super Fans: there’s a shot of the back yard pre-barn and it’s kinda weird seeing it totally empty.

24:37 – It seems that the jokes about Jeffrey being inept with grills go waay back; here we are teasing him about calling the fire department. Perhaps it’s deserved because he manages to light the bag of charcoal on fire while replenishing the coals…

26:48 – Grilling has begun with Jeffrey acting as sous chef while Ina sets the table for dinner with a bowl of limes as décor.

27:55 – The corn pudding is out of the oven, and Jeffrey manages to stick the landing with the chicken, so dinner appears to be coming together quite nicely!

28:10 – Time to sit down to dinner – cheers are offered to their combined efforts and then key lime pie.

29:29 – Jeffrey’s compliments go way back too – he tells Ina that it’s the best key lime pie she’s made yet! Aww.

Final Thoughts:
I’m 100% with Ina on balancing the flavors and spice in a meal – all one note is so wearing after awhile.

Ina has been making key lime pie for 30+ years and I have yet to attempt it. Maybe summer 2016 will be my year?

Watching reeeeally old episodes is simultaneously weird and fun. The beginnings are there and it’s cool to see how things have evolved.

Lessons Learned:
Since fresh sweet corn is still available (just barely) I had to make Sagaponack Corn Pudding before autumn takes hold completely. I’ve only tried using a water bath to cook a pudding once before and I’d say it was only moderately successful – recipe mistake or user error, who’s to say? Thankfully this time had a much better outcome.

Corn – This would not be the time to use frozen or canned. For me, the fresh crunch of sweet corn cut from the cob is not something I’m interested in substituting. Make this now, while you still can!

Prep – Cutting the corn kernels directly into a high-sided bowl is so much neater and easier to contain them that way. Just stand the ear end-up in the bowl and cut vertically down each side. The bowl catches 90% and your kitchen doesn’t have little bits all over.

Individual Portions – Rather than make one large pudding, I wanted to make single servings. I followed the directions exactly up to the point of putting the mixture into the baking dish and used 7 oz oven safe ramekins instead. A half-size version of the recipe just filled 6 ramekins and the baking time was exactly the same – 40-45 minutes in a water bath.

Water Bath – I’d recommend testing your baking dish/water bath pan to make sure the dish will fit. Particularly if you’re filling ramekins, I’d recommend portioning them and getting them arranged the way you want in the pan before filling the remaining space with hot water. I boiled it in a tea kettle since my tap water isn’t the hottest.

Make Ahead – If oven space is limited you can make the corn pudding ahead of time and keep it warm for about an hour just by leaving the ramekins in the water bath and setting the entire contraption aside with foil over it. The individual portions also warm up beautifully in the microwave with a damp paper towel over the top, so by all means make a few extra…

Small Kitchen Friendly?
Mostly… To prep I used a large sauté pan, medium mixing bowl, medium cutting board, chef’s knife, box grater, a liquid measuring cup, measuring spoons, a whisk and a rubber spatula. To cook, you’ll need either a large oven-safe casserole dish or approximately 10 ramekins and a pan large enough (I used a 9x13 pan) to contain the baking dish(es).

The Verdict:
Oh, good lord Sagaponack Corn Pudding is. so. good. The flavors are so beautifully complimentary and the results are deliciously creamy hovering somewhere in the neighborhood of mac and cheese, but with the lightness of a vegetable gratin. I made this recipe as a side with Ina’s Barbecue Chicken and while the chicken was delicious, I’m pretty sure the corn pudding stole the show. I personally prefer the individual portions; if for no other reason than that it’s easier to defend your territory from marauding eaters, made in a larger dish I’m pretty sure there will be a spirited discussion over who get the last spoonful!

Basil, Corn & Quinoa Salad

June 08, 2015 by Laura Messersmith

Summer eating presents some challenges – primarily, the conundrum is I’m still hungry all the time, but the foods that are appealing when the weather is hot don’t really fill me up. I’d like to live on popsicles, watermelon, and iced coffee but nutritionally it’s not a sound plan. What I really need is something fresh and light with enough substance to make it worth eating, and of course delicious enough to make it work preparing. To my way of thinking; time in the kitchen when the weather is beautiful better be well spent!

I’ve eaten just about every permutation of this salad, as the credits below demonstrate, and I love all of them but this one has just the right amount of everything. Rich, nutty quinoa and grape tomatoes are tossed with a lime vinaigrette and pulled back from the brink of too acidic by mild, sweet corn and the mellow basil. A symphony of summery flavors.

It’s easy to make ahead, can be tossed with a few leafy greens, or further dinner-ized with some grilled chicken (perhaps Tequila Citrus? - more on that Wednesday), which makes it worthy of your Sunday afternoon efforts and makes Monday night dinner a snap.

Basil, Corn & Quinoa Salad (serves: 4-6)

Ingredients:
1 cup dried quinoa
4 ears fresh sweet corn, shucked
1 pint grape tomatoes
1/3 cup (3-4 limes) fresh lime juice
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup thinly sliced red onion
1/3 cup fresh basil leaves, julienned
Kosher salt
Ground black pepper

Instructions:
In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook the ears of corn for 3 minutes to remove the starchy texture. Drain and immerse the corn in ice water to stop the cooking and to set the color. When the corn is cool, use a chef’s knife to cut the kernels off the cob. Place the kernels in a large bowl and set aside to continue cooling.

Meanwhile, in a medium sauce pan bring 2 cups of water to a boil. Add the quinoa and 1 teaspoon of salt, lower the heat and simmer, covered, for 15 minutes, until the grains are tender and open – they’ll look like they have little curly tails. While the quinoa cooks, juice the limes and combine with the olive oil, 1 teaspoon of kosher salt and 1/2 teaspoon of ground black pepper. When the quinoa is done, drain in a fine sieve, place in a bowl and immediately add the lime dressing. Toss to coat well and place the bowl in the refrigerator to cool.

Slice the grape tomatoes in half length-wise, julienne the basil leaves, and slice the red onion in very thin quarter moons. Add the vegetables and the reserved corn kernels to the dressed quinoa and fold together. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and more lime juice, if needed. Serve at room temperature or refrigerate and serve cold.

Inspired by and adapted from Bon Appétit Charred Corn Salad with Basil and Tomatoes and Ina Garten’s Quinoa Tabbouleh with Feta and Corn and Avocado Salad.

Small Kitchen Friendly?
Yes and no. This does take a few more items than I usually like to use, but the results are delicious, so… forgive me? I used a large pot (for the corn), a medium pot (for the quinoa) - note if you're organized the one large pot could suffice with a wash in between - two medium mixing bowls, a medium sieve, liquid measuring cup, measuring spoons, medium cutting board, chef’s knife, and large mixing spoon. Tongs are also super helpful for removing the corn from the boiling water.

The Verdict:
If it’s possible to fall in love with a salad, then I’ve fallen in love with this one. Something about the balance of flavors has me craving the bite of citrus, cool tomatoes, and rich quinoa. I served it along side Tequila Citrus Chicken, but it could easily be the main event. Be forewarned: it’s easy to stuff yourself with it’s deliciousness and not even realize it until you need to be rolled away from the table.

Farm Stand Corn Chowder with Crab

August 25, 2014 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking

Remember how I was threatening to make soup one of these chilly nights? Well after the weather stayed cool and my mother-in-law, Lucy, brought us some corn on the cob from her local farm stand my mission was clear: Corn Chowder. I suppose I could have just boiled it, rolled the ears in butter and sprinkled them with salt and pepper, but where’s the challenge in that?

I did a little snooping around online for guidance and found help from both Jamie Oliver and Martha Stewart. I liked how light Jamie was on the cream and the idea of using Corn Stock from Martha’s recipe struck me as a particularly chef-y thing to do without requiring a culinary degree to achieve. I admit that the prep and cooking time mean this isn’t a weeknight meal, but all the more reason to make a big batch on the weekend and reheat a day or so later – it definitely holds up.

Chowder can sometimes be overly thick with too much flour or cream to seem appropriate for summer. The results of this recipe are the exact opposite without losing that deep flavor and comforting texture that make it chowder and not just soup. I attribute that to two factors: 1. Fresh corn, 2. The corn stock. I know it’s tempting to just grab a bag from the freezer and substitute chicken stock, but having traveled that road before I think this is the better way.

Farm Stand Corn Chowder with Crab (serves 4-6)

Chowder Ingredients:

3 cups (4 ears) fresh corn on the cob
2 cups corn stock
2 cups (3 medium) white potatoes, peeled and 1/3” diced
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/4 cup minced shallots
3/4 cup heavy cream
3/4 cup skim milk
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3/4 teaspoon minced fresh thyme
8 ounces fresh, lump crab meat
fresh chives, for garnish

Corn Stock Ingredients:

4 fresh corn cobs, kernels removed
8 cups water
1 yellow onion, peeled and quartered

Directions

Shuck the ears of corn and remove as much silk as possible. Using a chef’s knife, cut a small slice from the stalk end of the ear to make a flat base. Rest the flat end against the cutting board and cut the corn kernels from the cob. Set aside the kernels and place the cobs in a large dutch oven. Peel and quarter one yellow onion and add to the dutch oven.

Cover the cobs and onion with 8 cups water and bring to a boil. Once the water is boiling, reduce the heat and simmer, covered for 45 minutes. Then remove the lid and continue to simmer until the stock is reduced to about 2 cups. Remove the corn cobs and onion quarters from the stock and discard. Pour the corn stock into a heat-proof measuring cup and set aside.

Place the dutch oven back on the stove top over low heat. Melt together the olive oil and butter. Add the mince shallot and sauté for 1 minute. Next add the peeled, diced white potatoes to the pot and stir to coat with butter and shallots. Cook for 2-3 minutes, then season with 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt and 3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.

Add the corn kernels and 2 cups of corn stock to the potatoes and shallots and increase the heat to bring to a low boil. Cook for 5-6 minutes or until the potatoes begin to soften in the middle – check them with a fork or butter knife for tenderness.

Reduce the heat to low and stir in the minced, fresh thyme, heavy cream and skim milk. Simmer until the potatoes are fully cooked, but still al dente.

Next, use a ladle to measure out 1 cup of the chowder into a blender and puree until smooth. Return the pureed soup to the pot and stir in to thicken the chowder.

Serve hot in and top each portion with 1-2 tablespoons chilled, fresh crab meat. Snip the chives with kitchen shears or mince with a chef’s knife and sprinkle a pinch over each bowl of soup.

Small Kitchen Friendly:

Yes, absolutely. I used a large dutch oven, a large cutting board, a medium bowl (to reserve the corn kernels in), a 2 cup measuring cup, and a blender. For tools I needed one wooden spoon, one chef’s knife, measuring spoons, a ladle and a dinner fork.

The Verdict: It probably sounds like I’m tooting my own horn, but I was genuinely delighted by how well this turned out. As proof; when extras languish in the fridge I know it’s only a so-so meal. With the Farm Stand Corn Chowder Mike and I had to negotiate the distribution of the leftovers lest one of us miss out on having a second taste. The crab is a great compliment to the chowder and we liked the contrast of temperatures and textures.

Lastly, this recipe is gluten free and also up until that finishing dollop of crab vegetarian too, but still delicious and satisfying. It wasn’t necessarily my goal, but it is good news if you’re cooking for anyone who does have concerns or diet restrictions in that realm. Something everyone can enjoy!